Don’t Go to the Palawan’s Puerto Princesa Underground River Without Reading This First!

Palawan is consistently ranked as one of the most beautiful islands in the world, and it earns that title effortlessly.  When we were planning our road trip around Palawan, we decided that the Puerto Princesa Underground River is a must stop due to its UNESCO status. But I also read travel blogs and reviews and I wasn’t really sure what to expect. Some people said that it is an overrated tour, some liked it. We wanted to go regardless the feedback, but there are a few things worth knowing before your trip. So, I wanted to give you the most honest and factual overview so you know what to expect.

Why the Palawan Subterranean River Is More Than Just a Tourist Stop

Towering limestone cliffs, emerald jungles, and impossibly blue water feel almost unreal. I absolutely loved it there despite being one of the most touristic spots. While El Nido’s lagoons steal most of the spotlight, Palawan’s most extraordinary natural wonder lies hidden underground…that is what Palawan’s brochures say. Known interchangeably as the Palawan Subterranean River and the Puerto Princesa Underground River, this UNESCO World Heritage Site and New 7 Wonders of Nature titleholder is far more than a quick tourist stop.

That said, it’s also one of the most misunderstood attractions in the Philippines. The river is heavily protected, visitor numbers are capped, and the logistics can feel intimidating before you arrive. After navigating the entire process myself, I realized that many online guides are outdated, overcomplicated, or simply wrong.

This is the honest, on-the-ground reality guide to make your planning to the Puerto Princesa Underground River easier. I hope you enjoy it.

What does the trip to underground river look like

First of all, I want to advice you to go there early in the morning for two reasons:

• Firstly, we had a capricious weather and towards early afternoon, the wind picked up and it started raining. I am not sure if the tours get cancelled or not due to weather conditions, but I definitely wouldn’t like to be in the sea with those waves. On the way back it was quite choppy already.
• Secondly, to protect the ecosystem, the park enforces a strict quota of around 900 visitors per day.

But let me start from the beginning…

We stayed overnight in Four Pints by Sheraton not far from the Sabang Wharf. We only had a short beach walk to do, so we arrived early. On the other note, if you are thinking to stay there (and I think it’s worth it), this hotel is amazing, so book it without hesitation.

Once we arrived to the wharf, we learned that there are a few things that need to be done to go to the Underground River. Before you pay for a boat, you need to get permit.

1. Get a permit. There is a little building that issues permits with 3 (or 4) step process. It’s actually funny to watch how they work there. Very old style and taking their time. Without having anyone if front of us, it took us 20 minutes to get a piece of paper with a few people needing to sign or stamp something.
2. Pay for the boat plus another small administrative fee.
3. Wait in the queue for the assigned boat. We booked ours that included a guide and we were supposed to be only 6, but in the end they added more people while we had already paid.
4. Try not to get deaf during the ride (approx. 30 minutes) and have your belongings in a waterproof bag as there are times the waves spatter quite a lot. We had one big wave covering nearly everyone completely. Luckily, my camera and the phone were protected.
5. Once we arrived to the beach, the guide waited for us and showed us the way to the cave. It is a nice, short walk in the forest. There are monkeys on the beach, so watch your stuff.
6. On the way we were given casks; the life vests we had on from the first boat (they have boat numbers on the back to be easily recognized).
7. Board the small boat to the cave. It takes around 1hr to enter and exist.
8. To go back, we boarded the same boat as previously.

The Permit Myth: What You Actually Need to Know

One of the biggest misconceptions about visiting the Palawan Subterranean River is the permit process. Many blogs insist that you must visit the City Booking Office in Puerto Princesa several days in advance. While this can be a good idea for large groups or during peak periods like Christmas or Easter, it’s far from the only option.

If you’re traveling solo or in a small group, you can often secure your permit directly at Sabang Wharf. There’s a registration window right at the pier, and if there are still slots available within the daily 900-visitor quota, you can pay your fees and proceed without ever going to the city office.

The fees include the entrance fee, a small terminal fee, and an environmental fee that’s valid for an entire year, so keep your receipt if you’ve already paid it elsewhere in Palawan. There is also an audio guide fee. Although it may appear optional on paper, we were clearly told that the audio guide is compulsory, even if you think you won’t use it.

If you want to avoid both the city office and the risk of a sell-out, the best solution is to stay overnight in Sabang. Most hotels there can arrange your permit either the evening before or early in the morning, removing almost all of the stress.

A clear Overview of How much does it cost

• Entrance/park permit: Generally around ₱500 per adult (foreign)- this can include the basic park entry.

• Audio guide: Around ₱85 (often compulsory).

• Environmental fee: About ₱150 (valid annually).

• Terminal/wharf fee: Small amount (e.g., ₱5–₱10).

So the core on-site fees total roughly around ₱740+ per person (foreign adult) before boat charges.

• Motorized outrigger boat from Sabang Wharf to near the cave entrance (often charged per boat, shared with others, but as I mentioned earlier, we paid the boat divided by 6, but in the end more people boarded). Typical rates are around ₱180–₱200 per person when shared.

• Paddle boat into the river cave (usually part of the cave tour included with the permit and audio guide). We did not pay anything for it.

The Palawan Subterranean River Is Not in Puerto Princesa City

Despite the name, the Palawan Subterranean River (often called the Puerto Princesa Underground River) is not actually located in Puerto Princesa City. It sits in Sabang, a small coastal village about 80 kilometers north of the city center. This detail alone catches many travelers off guard.

The drive takes roughly one and a half to two hours along a winding mountain road that’s scenic but slow. As we rented a car in Puerto Princesa and planned a road trip around Palawan, we got to the underground river independently. However, there are other options too if you don’t want to drive in Palawan. Public vans depart from the San Jose Bus Terminal and are the most budget-friendly option, while shared tourist vans are a bit more comfortable. If you’re coming from El Nido, many El Nido–Puerto Princesa vans can drop you at Salvacion Junction, where you can transfer to a local ride heading down to Sabang.

And of course, there are many day tours to Puerto Princesa Underground River what the city. They seem o be quite popular as we say many groups arriving.

Planning your transport carefully makes the day far more enjoyable, especially if you’re trying to avoid a rushed return.

The Two-Boat System (and the Loudest Ride of Your Life)

Visiting the Palawan Subterranean River involves two separate boat rides, and this is where most of the waiting happens. From Sabang Wharf, you’ll board a motorized outrigger boat for a short trip to Poyuy-Poyuy Beach. Depending on the weather, the water can be choppy, and there’s no pier, meaning you’ll step straight into the sea when you disembark.

The boat itself was stable enough, but the engine noise was unforgettable.  Nothing pleasant at all. Our boat, number 19, was so loud it felt genuinely overwhelming, and for a moment I wondered if temporary hearing loss was part of the experience. I can’t say whether all boats are like this, but it’s something to be mentally prepared for.

From the beach, a short jungle walk leads to the cave entrance. The trail is beautiful, shaded, and full of monkeys who have absolutely no respect for personal belongings. Sunglasses, hats, and snacks should be held tightly.

At the cave mouth, you’ll board a small paddle boat, and the atmosphere changes instantly. The engine noise disappears, the air cools, and you glide quietly into the cave, guided through the first 1.5 kilometers of this underground world.

Inside the Cave: Silence, Bats, and Dripping Stone

The Palawan Subterranean River is a fragile ecosystem, and strict rules are in place to protect it. Guides are no longer allowed to talk or shout inside the cave, which is why the mandatory audio guides exist. Surprisingly, they work extremely well. The narration is synced to the formations you pass, allowing the cave to remain quiet and almost reverent. However, I must admit that I took them off at some point. The information was interesting, but I just wanted to soak in the moment. I loved the experience.

Looking up is unavoidable, and unforgettable. Thousands of bats and swifts cling to the ceiling above you. Don’t worry about them, they don’t care much about humans and on top of that you will be wearing a helmet. When your guide points out dramatic stalactites and massive chambers, it’s instinctive to gasp in awe. Just remember to keep your mouth closed. Bat guano is very real, and gravity always wins.

What to Pack (and What You’ll Regret Not Bringing)

Packing properly makes a huge difference. Water shoes are essential, as you’ll be wading on and off boats and walking on wet sand. Sneakers will only end up soaked and uncomfortable. I didn’t bring water shoes on this trip, but wore sandals that I didn’t mind getting wet.

A dry bag is equally important. The cave ceiling constantly drips, it’s a living cave, and unprotected phones or cameras don’t stand a chance. But this is not too bad, I would worry more about the first boat ride as we got totally wet.  Insect repellent is useful for the jungle trail, where mosquitoes are very much at home.

And finally, bring patience. Even with a permit, the system can feel slow and slightly chaotic at the wharf. Bring a book, enjoy the karst scenery, or simply accept that this is part of the experience.

Is the Palawan Subterranean River Worth It?

I imagine that some people might be put off by the crowds and the feeling of being processed through a system. And yes, the logistics can feel clunky at times. But once you’re inside the cave, all of that fades away.

The highlight is the Cathedral, a massive chamber soaring over 60 meters high, silent and immense. The mineral formations, shaped over millions of years, feel almost sacred. Floating through this space is humbling, grounding, and deeply memorable. So yes, in my opinion of it worth it.

Please note that this post included affiliate links, when you decide to purchase anything through these links I get a small commission at NO extra cost to you, it helps me to keep running this blog! I only promote products and services I use or would use myself. All images are the property of Postcards from the World and cannot be used without permission.

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• Booking.com for searching best prices on accommodation.
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• Discover Cars is a great website as they search both local and international car hire services, so you can choose the best deal for yourself. Make sure though, that the company has a good reputation and reviews.
• Get Your Guide is my place to go for searching and booking tours and excursions, especially when I travel solo.
• World Nomads and EKTA travel insurance. I like them because they have quite extensive coverage of different activities.
• WeGoTrip sends you audio guides to your mobile, so you can visit places while learning history and interesting facts easily and for little money.
• Go City is a perfect site for booking bucket list experiences and attractions all in one to avoid paying for multiple tickets. Easy and saves money. You can even save 50%.
• Trip Advisor– amazing for good quality recommendations.
• Skyscanner is a perfect website for searching flight routes and comparing prices.
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