Ultimate Guide to Renting a Car and Driving in Sicily for First-Time Visitors
Driving in Sicily can be tricky at first, narrow streets, winding roads, and busy towns can feel overwhelming. But once you get the hang of it, driving anywhere else in Italy (or even Europe) feels much easier. Having a car here gives you the freedom to explore hidden beaches, charming villages, and scenic countryside at your own pace. In this guide, I’ll share practical tips on renting a car, navigating the roads, and making the most of your Sicilian adventure so you can enjoy the island without stress.

Guide to renting a car and driving in Sicily
Driving in Italy, in general, seems to be stressful for many tourists. When I mentioned to people that I’m renting a car in Sicily, every single person, with no fail, said I must be crazy. That includes Italian, who admit that they think twice before renting a car and driving in Sicily. That being said, I combined everything you need to know about renting a car in Sicily.
I knew already before the trip to avoid driving in big cities, so I purposefully rented a car at the Palermo airport (after my visit to the city) to start the road trip along the coast all the way to Catania, where I dropped it off at the airport again, without the need to drive in the centre. It was a good call.
Alternatives to driving in Sicily:
- While using buses in Sicily can slow you down, it is a good option if you have the time. There’s a decent bus network between the main cities.
- Trains are also available, and when I was planning the trip (scared by comments about driving there), I considered using the train. The downside is that you won’t be able to get to all the smaller places, but overall, it’s a great option.
BOOK A TRAIN AND BUS TICKETS HERE
- Join an organized tour or hire a private driver. It’s a good option for places that are difficult to reach or you just cannot be bothered driving yourself. It was a perfect solution for me in Catania and Palermo to see places around without the hustle of driving in these mad cities.
How to rent a car in Sicily
I like to use Discover Cars website when searching for car as it compares many different providers (including local companies), so you can pick the best price. It’s like Skyscanner, but for cars. It’s also a good idea to reserve a car online beforehand as it is a popular option in Sicily and you might not be lucky to have a car available without prior booking.
Pick the right car
With all the narrow and curvy roads throughout the island, and the many hilly towns and villages, the best option might be an automatic car for more comfortable driving in Sicily. Choosing the right car makes a huge difference, smaller cars are easier to park in tight streets, while a reliable engine helps tackle the hills and winding roads. Once you pick the right vehicle, driving in Sicily becomes much more enjoyable and stress-free, letting you focus on the stunning scenery and hidden gems along the way.

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Documents needed to drive in Italy
To be able to legally drive in Italy you need to be at least 18 years old, however, many car rental companies won’t rent you a car if you are not 25 and have your driving license for at least a year. They also have the maximum age of a driver, it’s usually 70 years, sometimes 75.
If your license has been issued by a European Union country, you don’t need an international license. Otherwise, you must plan for it before coming to Italy and bring it with you.
Insurance for car rentals- choose carefully
As I’m saying below in more detail, be careful what kind of insurance you buy. Mine was the highest possible with full coverage, but it was never mentioned to me that the interior of the car is not insured, so any part of the car that gets damaged or missing, is not covered by the insurance. Make sure that you ask this question; it might save you a lot of money.
Be aware of scams
I wrote this in another post about reasons why Sicily disappointed me. A huge scam by a rental company that cost me hundreds of dollars. I usually do not name companies that are bad, but this time I will because they are on the line of fraud. As advised by staff, I purchased extended insurance and was told that don’t need to check the car for damages etc. since the insurance covers it all. I received a car with a broken mirror and suspiciously working automatic gear. I was not too worried since all was covered, so you can imagine my surprise when upon returning it, the agency staff went (filming with her mobile) straight into the boot saying that the cover is missing. Hmmm, how did she know it wasn’t there? Of course, it was never there in the first place, but apparently, expensive full-cover insurance doesn’t apply to the car interior and that piece of plastic was estimated to cost over $1000. The money was immediately and automatically withdrawn from my card and since I had no proof that the piece was never in the car, I could not argue.
A few emails were sent without a resolution or response from their side. This company is called Sicily by Car and I would advise you not to rent from them. If you read reviews online, you’ll realize that this is their standard practice.

Driving in sicily ( and whole Italy)
Driving in Italy: the basic stuff
Just a few basics to driving in Sicily (that would apply to many other places in Italy). In the whole country, you drive on the right-hand side of the road.
While technology such as Google Maps or Waze comes in handy, don’t solely rely on them in Sicily. It happened once or twice that Google Maps tried to take me through a very rough street, against the traffic, or through the ZTL zone (entering those zones might get you a fine), so pay attention to the signs to avoid problems and possibly traffic violations and fines.
Similarly to driving in Poland, in Sicily, drivers may flash the lights at you. Sometimes it might be a warning that there’s something wrong with your car (like you don’t have lights on or one is broken), but it usually means that the police might be somewhere along the road measuring the speed or doing random controls.

The speed limit
Although people do not seem to abide by the traffic rules, obeying the speed limit was something most drivers respected (I guess the fines are hefty). There are speed cameras everywhere, but what’s important to remember is that in Sicily there are many distance speed cameras that calculate the average speed between spot A and spot B.
ZTL zones
ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitato) is an area with limited traffic or only for pedestrians. Do not enter those zones as most likely you’ll get a fine. There are cameras at entrances that will scan your plate number (and the ticket might arrive even a few months after your trip). The police usually send the ticket to the rental company which will additionally charge you a fee for processing the fine. And they never lose an opportunity to charge customers (as I learned the hard way in Sicily).
Pay attention to the timings of ZTL entries as well.
In some places, the ZTL zone is only accessible to the residents. In one city, I booked a hotel that was within a ZTL zone and in order to enter with my car without risking a fine, the landlord needed to send a plate number, a photo of the car, and the dates of my stay to the local police. That way, it was registered as a hotel guest’s car.

Parking in Sicily
Like in most places in Italy, parking spaces in Sicily are rather difficult to find. The cities and towns are old, which means that the roads are often narrow with little space for parked cars. If there are designated parking spaces on street, make sure that you notice the colours of the line in the parking:
- White line- free parking
- Blue line- paid parking (search for the ticket machine, sometimes they are quite far)
- Yellow line- reserved for disabled people and residents only
Don’t leave any valuables in the car, especially visible. Not even an empty sunglasses case. The broken window might cost more (if not covered by insurance) than what gets missing. It’s not uncommon in Sicily for cars to be broken into, even during the day. When you leave your car in parking overnight or for long hours, if possible, park near a CCTV camera– this was a tip I got from the locals.

Don’t underestimate the distances
Sicily may look small on the map, but don’t be fooled, driving from one town to another can take much longer than you expect. Many people try to see the whole coast in a week or ten days, but that usually means rushing from place to place without really enjoying it. I spent ten days in Sicily and focused mostly on the coastal towns, plus a few inland stops between Palermo and Catania, driving anticlockwise.
In many areas, the roads are narrow, full of potholes, cracks, and winding stretches, which slows you down considerably. On top of that, the speed limits vary, and locals sometimes drive much faster than the signs suggest, so it’s a good idea to stay alert. Planning realistic distances between stops and adding extra travel time will save you a lot of stress. Remember: it’s better to enjoy a few places fully than to rush through the entire island.

Watch out for crazy drivers
The most heard tip I got from Italians and those, who visited Sicily was: the only traffic rule you need to know is that there are no traffic rules. This loosely translates as having your eyes around your head and ears wide open as whatever you don’t expect, is most likely to happen.
Indicators seem to be broken in most cars, they simply do not indicate. Of course, Im joking, but it’s true that drivers do not use the indicators as they should.

Avoid driving in big cities
Driving in big cities in Sicily is a nightmare. The roads are chaotic, traffic is heavy, and lanes suddenly multiply like magic — what feels like two lanes can easily turn into five cars squeezed side by side. Parking spaces are scarce, and GPS isn’t always reliable, so you might end up driving in circles for a while. The most stressful driving experience for me was on the outskirts of Catania (although I’ve heard Palermo is even worse), so my advice is to explore the cities on foot, by taxi, or using public transport, and only rent a car once you’re ready to leave the city.
Trapani wasn’t as bad, but even there, after circling the same street for the fifth (or seventh) time, patience starts to run thin. If you must drive in a city, try to park in a secure lot a bit outside the center and walk in, or plan your route carefully ahead of time. Early mornings or late evenings tend to be less stressful for short drives.

Petrol stations in Sicily
The petrol stations are rather frequent across Sicily. There are two types of stations: self-serviced, called fai da te, and fully serviced, called servito. I personally preferred the serviced ones for comfort, especially when navigating unfamiliar roads, but in some cases, it’s cheaper to use the self-service pumps. You’ll often see two prices listed for these options, so it’s worth paying attention.
Prices can vary between petrol stations, so if you have the time, compare a few before filling up to get the best deal. Keep in mind that many smaller towns might have fewer stations, so it’s a good idea to fill up before heading into more rural or mountainous areas.
A few terms that might come in handy:
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benzina – petrol
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senza piombo – unleaded petrol
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diesel – diesel
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pompa – pump
Also, note that some stations close in the afternoon for a few hours (pausa pranzo), so plan accordingly when driving in smaller towns.

Use my favourite travel resources to plan your dream trips
- Booking.com for searching best prices on accommodation.
- AirHelp helps to get compensation for cancelled or delayed flights.
- Travel Payouts is my favourite platform for monetizing the blog.
- Discover Cars is a great website as they search both local and international car hire services, so you can choose the best deal for yourself. Make sure though, that the company has a good reputation and reviews.
- Get Your Guide is my place to go for searching and booking tours and excursions, especially when I travel solo.
- World Nomads and EKTA travel insurance. I like them because they have quite extensive coverage of different activities.
- WeGoTrip sends you audio guides to your mobile, so you can visit places while learning history and interesting facts easily and for little money.
- Go City is a perfect site for booking bucket list experiences and attractions all in one to avoid paying for multiple tickets. Easy and saves money. You can even save 50%.
- Trip Advisor– amazing for good quality recommendations.
- Skyscanner is a perfect website for searching flight routes and comparing prices.
- Airalo is my eSim choice for alternative data abroad.
See also:
- I have a confession to make: 5 reasons why Sicily disappointed me.
- From Tuskany to Cannes in two weeks. Plan a perfect road trip in France and Italy.
- A guide to Gdansk for first time travellers.
- 7 things to do in Cyprus.
- Epic 3-week central Europe road trip Itinerary: must-see destinations & tips
- Renting a car and driving in Albania in 2025: All you need to know
- 15 best European road trips to take in 2025 for an epic adventure.
- 10 Best summer destinations in Europe without crowds and overpricing
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